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Bhutan’s second attraction is the Buddhist religion, and the splendid array of dzongs (former fortresses where civil servants and monks now reside), temples and monasteries that it has spawned across the country.

With its theory of reincarnation, the equal value it places on human and animal life, and its relaxed, meditative nature, Buddhism has great attractions to Western travellers used to fast, cluttered lives.

Whilst driving over the spectacular – if somewhat terrifying - mountain passes, we encountered a nomadic, pregnant tribeswoman milking her prize yak in a herd of fifty, and watched as our car mirror was toyed with by a cheeky Assamese Macaque monkey.

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Nestling in the Eastern region of the Himalayas, it was concealed between its big neighbours India to the south and China (via the ‘semi-autonomous region’ of Tibet) to the north.It is the Bhutanese government’s central policy objective, designed to promote the spiritual welfare of the people of the Himalayan kingdom and preserve the physical splendour of the landscape they inhabit, above simple economic advancement.It’s a deliberate, striking contrast to the material yardstick of the Gross Domestic Product, so beloved of Western nations.Tempa, a former sergeant in the Bhutanese army, regaled us with the story of how he and colleagues had driven back Assam terrorists in border skirmishes in 2003 – while plying us with copious quantities of his potent home-grown liquor, ara, served with scrambled egg.Now Tempa and Tashi’s aunt Naizang enjoy the life – as do many Bhutanese in this rural country – of subsistence farmers, keeping a cow and growing a surprisingly varied number of crops, including maize, beans, mushrooms, garlic and tamarillo (‘tree tomato’).

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